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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.